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            <h2 class="toc-title">目录</h2>
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        </div><article class="page single"><h1 class="single-title animated flipInX">岐阜物语——高山篇</h1><div class="post-meta">
            <div class="post-meta-line"><span class="post-author"><a href="/" title="Author" rel=" author" class="author"><i class="fas fa-user-circle fa-fw"></i>辛载阳</a></span>&nbsp;<span class="post-category">收录于 <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E8%A1%8C/"><i class="far fa-folder fa-fw"></i>旅行</a></span></div>
            <div class="post-meta-line"><i class="far fa-calendar-alt fa-fw"></i>&nbsp;<time datetime="2020-02-04">2020-02-04</time>&nbsp;<i class="fas fa-pencil-alt fa-fw"></i>&nbsp;约 1666 字&nbsp;
                <i class="far fa-clock fa-fw"></i>&nbsp;预计阅读 4 分钟&nbsp;</div>
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                    <span>目录</span>
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            </div><div class="content" id="content"><p>如果我没有去过岐阜高山，那么这一系列或许就会以镰仓或者日光的游记来作为开篇，然而，我思虑再三还是把第一篇用来写了高山。</p>
<p>其一，是由于高山和《冰菓》的关系，关于这一点，我已经在之前的这篇文章中进行了叙述 [迟到的悼念：我们所经历的每个平凡的日常，也许就是连续发生的奇迹](<a href="https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzUyODM4MjAzOA==&amp;mid=2247483841&amp;idx=1&amp;sn=1d4f315bccde397dfe1df14c551fd0dd&amp;chksm=fa7060f8cd07e9eee3fb62664a7082067e2895525504e9b67f30dc6f9a7bcd0373ecf2eb89a6&amp;token=378379596&amp;lang=zh_CN#rd%3e%7d%7d" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreffer">https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s?__biz=MzUyODM4MjAzOA==&mid=2247483841&idx=1&sn=1d4f315bccde397dfe1df14c551fd0dd&chksm=fa7060f8cd07e9eee3fb62664a7082067e2895525504e9b67f30dc6f9a7bcd0373ecf2eb89a6&token=378379596&lang=zh_CN#rd>}}</a></p>
<p>其二，则是这座坐落在飞弹群山之间的小城所给予我的世外桃源般的观感，使我久久徜徉其中，流连忘返。</p>
<p>名古屋虽然作为日本第三大城市群，却完全比不上东京都的繁荣，也比不上京都大阪的游人如织，然而，名古屋之北的岐阜县，群山之中，坐落着号称日本三大名泉之一的下吕温泉，拥有世界文化遗产高山合掌屋的白川乡，以及盛产飞弹牛肉而著称的飞弹高山乡。这次，我要讲的便是Takayama高山。</p>
<p>从下吕站出发，乘坐急行列车大概五十分钟便可到达高山站。一路上，列车依山傍水而行，恰逢台风刚去，水雾弥漫，烟雨朦胧。</p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/1.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>高山站</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>

<p>走出高山站，迎面而来的是空旷而寂静的马路，往前几步映入眼帘的便是高山的宫川了，于是便可以沿着宫川恣意而行。两岸的房屋错落有致，丝毫不输京都鸭川的风采。</p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/2.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>宫川</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>

<p>我有一个习惯，每到一个陌生的地方，我最好奇和最想去看的便是这里的建筑风光，于是便首先前往了合掌村。本来著名的白川乡合掌村并不在高山，但是前一天我和所住下吕温泉旅馆的老板娘聊起第二天的安排，她得知我们既想去高山又不想错过白川乡的合掌屋时便告诉我们高山也有合掌屋的遗存，只不过规模较小，于是我们便决定前往高山。在公交车站台停留许久，查询了谷歌地图之后发现去往合掌村的车次稀少于是我们便决定步行前往。沿着蜿蜒的山路漫步而上，大概四十分钟抵达了我们的目的地——高山合掌村。</p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/3.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/4.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>合掌屋</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>

<p>拾级而上，可以俯瞰山下景色。只见群山起伏，连绵不绝。</p>
<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/0.jpg"/>
</figure>

<p>走出合掌村，顺着山路返回山脚下再走十多分钟就来到了高山人举办祭典的白川乡八幡神社。神社几乎不见有人出入，只遇到两个神色有些慌张的巫女跑上台阶，进了神社。</p>
<p><figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/5.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/6.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/7.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>白川乡八幡神社</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
</p>
<p>回到宫川，走入被称为“小京都”的三町市街，游人如织。这片江户时代的古街道历尽战火而保存至今，两侧黑色的木格门似乎在诉说这千年荣辱。</p>
<p><figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/8.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/9.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>三町市街</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
</p>
<p>走过这段历史和现实交织的道路，拐入一条小径，找到了一家似乎并不起眼的小店开始我们在日本最奢侈的一顿午饭——飞弹牛肉。一盘沙拉配上一份飞弹和牛，外加一块烤面包，香气扑鼻而来。</p>
<p>吃完饭，下午便踱步去了高山阵屋，这里是日本最早的县级行政单位的办事处。内部需要脱鞋进入，陈列了很多历史的遗留，特别是德川家康建设岐阜城和高山的历史。距离此处不远的关原，便是丰臣秀吉和德川家康大战的古战场。</p>
<p><figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/12.jpg"/>
</figure>

<figure><img src="https://gitee.com/feiyuxiao/blogimage/raw/master/img/13.jpg"/><figcaption>
            <h4>高山阵屋</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
</p>
<p>天色已然渐晚，只能返回高山站等待开向名古屋的火车。短短一天，意犹未尽。<strong>我想，这座城市的魅力，或许恰恰不在于如京都历史的厚重，不在于如奈良殿宇的森严，而在于其静谧，在于其那潺潺水声、习习清风让人所体味到的宁静与安宁。</strong></p>
<p>在回程的火车上，突然想起了川端康成《篝火》里的句子：</p>
<blockquote>
<p>一看见道子，我就觉得她恍如小孩瞪大眼睛盯着珍奇的东西一样，使我感到高兴和诧异。这是不可思议的，我遥远的过去，沐浴着新的辉光。请看吧，请看吧，她悄悄地向我靠拢过来，跟我撒娇呢。她终于和我这样的人订婚了。不知怎的，我觉得她不考虑后果，怪可怜的。达观——莫非订婚就是一种寂寞的达观？我忽然看见两个雪球从空间无垠的黑暗中掉落下来，看来，世上的一切都如同远景，是无声的，渺小的。</p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong>似乎看到了他们两走在高山这样的两旁都是低矮的小房子的街道上，石板路上穿着和服的情侣牵着手，互相看着对方的眼睛，那一刹那，仿佛时光流转了千年。</strong></p>
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